The sample phase is the moment when your clothing line truly comes to life for the first time. In this article, we explain how patterns and samples work, what choices you need to make, and how to smartly utilize this phase before you go into production.
Many starting brands underestimate the sample phase. They see it as a kind of formality, while this is precisely the phase in which you prevent major mistakes and costly errors. Here you test fit, finish, comfort, and appearance before you have dozens or hundreds of pieces made.
In this blog we cover:
- what a pattern is exactly and why it is so important
- how the sample phase progresses step by step
- which mistakes you want to avoid as a beginner
- how we at Atelier Jungles work with patterns and samples
This article is part of our guide to starting a clothing line.
1. What is a pattern and why is it so important
A pattern is the technical foundation of your garment. Think of it as the blueprint from which all parts are cut and assembled. Without a good pattern, you cannot run a reliable production.
A good pattern provides:
- a consistent fit in all sizes
- an efficient fabric layout and less waste
- clear instructions for the workshop
Patterns can be made based on:
- your sketches or technical drawing
- an existing garment that serves as a reference
- a basic block that is adjusted to your design
In our workshop in The Hague, we can work with provided patterns or develop a new pattern together with you.
2. How the sample phase proceeds step by step
Although each brand and project is different, a typical sample phase looks something like this:
Step 1 - intake and design discussion
You share your design, references, desired fit, and target audience. We discuss sizes, material choice, and how technically feasible the design is within your budget and timeline.
Step 2 - pattern development
Based on your design and input, a pattern is made. This can be digital or manual, depending on the project. This pattern forms the basis for your sample.
Step 3 - first sample
We make a first sample in the chosen or a similar material. This is intended to assess fit, proportions, and details. Don't expect it to be perfect right away - it is a prototype.
Step 4 - fitting and feedback
Together we look at how the sample fits and feels. Is the length, width, neckline, sleeve, shoulder, waist, etc. correct? You gather feedback and determine what needs to be adjusted.
Step 5 - possible second sample
If a lot of adjustments are needed or if you want to test a new quality, we make a second sample. This is often the version that serves as a reference for the final production.
Only when you are satisfied with your sample is it wise to proceed to production.
3. Common mistakes in the sample phase
Because we work a lot with starting brands, we see the same mistakes repeatedly in the sample phase:
- Wanting to produce too quickly - wanting to order quantities after just one mediocre sample.
- No clear sizing - not determining in advance which size your sample should represent.
- Switching fabrics without retesting - a different fabric can completely change fit and feel.
- Not daring to make decisions - endless details keep changing, causing the project to stall.
Our advice: view the sample phase as an investment in clarity. A few hundred euros extra on samples can save you thousands of euros on failed production.
4. Rates and what is realistic for starters
The costs for patterns and samples depend on the complexity of the design and the number of models you start with. Generally, you can expect:
- hourly wage for pattern development and sample construction
- material and supplies costs for samples
- any additional costs for a second sample
At Atelier Jungles, we work for example with:
- an hourly rate for sample work (as described on the page clothing production and starting a clothing line)
- transparent estimation of hours per style in advance
This way, you know in advance approximately what to expect and can make choices that fit your budget and growth plans.
5. How we at Atelier Jungles work with samples
In our sewing studio in The Hague, we help brands and organizations translate their designs into workable patterns and samples. We pay attention not only to aesthetics but also to production, price, and sustainability.
Our approach in short:
- We always first discuss your concept, target audience, and purpose of the collection
- We advise on material choice and manufacturability
- We develop patterns or work with your existing patterns
- We schedule a fitting to assess fit and details
- Only after your approval do we look at the translation to production
More information about our working method can be found at clothing production and starting a clothing line in the Netherlands.
6. Checklist before you have samples made
Use this checklist to determine if you are ready for the sample phase:
- You have a clear concept and target audience.
- You have sketches or reference images of your designs.
- You have broadly chosen a fabric or fabric category.
- You know which size you want to use as your first sample size.
- You have budget reserved for patterns, one or two sample rounds.
This prevents you from getting stuck halfway or constantly changing direction.
Together setting up your samples and first collection
Do you want to have your first samples made in a studio that thinks along with you about fit, materials, and production in the Netherlands? At Atelier Jungles, we help you step by step.
Schedule an introduction or send us your plans:
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